Today, I am officially made out of cheese. We travelled to Sugano to a farm where we learned about the production of small-scale, artisinal goat cheese (followed by a lunch of bread, wine, and 12 types of cheese).
Overall impressions of the farm in Sugano: One thing I noticed immediately was that this farm was a family operation. The mix of toys on the lawn and small red galoshes by the entrance to the door was an automatic acknowledgement of a family-run business. While most group observations might have been the actual process of cheese- mine was more about the people. The first thing that struck me was a comment made by the owner. To paraphrase she remarked--the life she and her husband live was about giving back to nature and working with nature. She continued stating, it was an intentional choice to pursue this particular lifestyle and raise their children in this environment.
This got me thinking—much of the choices we make in life are not just to secure our own livelihoods but those of our families, perhaps neighbors and friends. While many people might not have the choice to pursue certain lifestyles, this family did--and it was deeply rooted in the value they clearly had for the land and the passion they held for the production of their cheeses. In understanding how their farm was interconnected to local markets and linked to the bureaucracy of cooperatives—the challenges they face in securing these livelihoods became more tangible. For me, placing faces with an issue that we speak so much about in class formed an even greater reality in which I felt finally connected to our subject matter.
So what makes their cheese so special and why did we go there? Well as we mentioned, they follow an ancient artisanal method with the kind of care and attention that it would be impossible to achieve on an industrial scale. The very land itself – the nutritious native grasses that feed the goats – is crucial to the process. But they face obstacles: to get the highly-coveted “Organic” stamp to market their product competitively, they need to buy grass grown in North America and shipped across the world. So they have struck a balance of buying some “organic” foreign grass while supplementing the feed with the native stuff; its their way of staying competitive while also respecting the wealth of the land, the traditions of the past, and actually improving the quality of the product.
They face a similar obstacle when making the cheese itself – law requires the use of harsh chemicals to disinfect everything – but this would also kill the desirable bacteria that give the cheese its special character. As we entered the production room, we saw buckets of milk, cheese out in the open, and standing water on the floor. We collectively thought: “Hmmm, is this sanitary?” Well unsurprisingly the ancient production methods he uses (though maybe not perfectly in line with newly-contrived safety laws) are time-tested and true. Independent biological analysis of his products at all stages showed that they were perfectly safe: the good bacteria actually regulates the bad and ensures a healthy, delicious product.
Hopefully, this experience shows us that traditional food made with care and skill on a small scale can respect the environment, find a successful market, and empower a family. In visiting, we witnessed different aspects of the cheese making process—from the goats in the stable to the place settings on the table. We left the farm having consumed a richly tasting product made with great intention, hard work, and infused with ideals and hope to strengthen a family’s prosperity.
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