from my slumber I was greeted by scenic views of what appeared to be the angelic rolling foothills of Alps. Unconsciously I began to hum “The sound of Music” How long was I asleep, “Are we in Austria?”“ No man, welcome to Parma."
Parmigiano Reggiano di San Bartolomeo:
The group descended upon this little Parmesan cheese factory with great vigor; opening the doors of the factory revealed four giant cooper cauldrons filled with a yellowish and waxy looking milk with rather large balls of cheese floating in the middle. Smiles were abound.
Our guide explained and demonstrated the first steps of production:
Unpasteurized milk is collected from farmers in surrounding hills
Heat and rennet applied until the giant wheels before us form
Large wheels cut in two and placed in forms with weight added to further drain
Wheels bathed in brine for 30 + days
· After Brining the cheese is stacked in storage for a minimum of 12 months
· Wheels are professionally inspected by lightly hammering and listening to the sound to check for air pockets. Based on the return ping a wheel will be quality graded 1-3 and branded with the Parma seal of approval.
Thoughts and Obs:
Gender roles felt fairly distinct especially in the first copper cauldron room as it was only men working. These men were well built and lifting these wheels appeared to be fairly physically demanding. The wife of the duo stated she was responsible for the business side of things but she was just as knowledgeable about the process as her husband; I have to believe she has gotten her hands cheesy on more than one occasion over the years.
When prices were discussed I was very surprised to learn how little monetary value is added through this process. It was stated that it costs 8 EU per Kilo to produce and current market prices were roughly 12.50 EU per kilo… not exactly a huge net gain especially when considering time of production of at least 13 months. In fact our guide stated that profit was a new phenomenon having only broken even the past seven years. Throw in long hours, lack of vacation and the strains of staying local and organic and this craft certainly appeared to be less desirable than previously imagined.
After the tour we ate cheese, lots of it, from a strata of 3 different ages. While this palette is admittedly lacks refinement, this was by far and away the tastiest Parma to pass my way and the love that was poured into each wheel was evident.
Reflecting on the morning it was clear, as mentioned before, that this trade was not about the Benjamin’s, but a love for the cheese. This factory produces some of Parma’s finest but its owners were not dwelling in expansive villas and driving Maseratis. However it was extremely clear, this was a happy husband, wife and child dwelling in a beautiful hillside home in harmony with nature… sounds like a good life to me.
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